Par Deolinda Ribeiro, globe-trotteuse, qui a travaillé près de trente ans à l’UNESCO, notamment au Centre du Patrimoine Mondial
« Prague, ce riche, ce gigantesque poème épique de l’architecture » écrivait Rainer Maria Rilke, vous invite à la découverte de son centre historique inscrit sur la liste du Patrimoine Mondial avec le pont Charles, au-dessus de la Vltava, symbole du temps et des hommes qui passent, l’emblème poétique de Prague avec ses trente statues-sentinelles de pierre impassibles, notamment celle du martyre Saint-Jean Népomucènese qui se trouve à l’endroit précis où ce dernier a été jeté à l’eau : si vous faites un vœu en posant la main gauche sur la base de sa statue vous le verrez devenir réalité.
Chaussez des tennis pour déambuler dans « la ville aux mille tours et mille clochers », et les ruelles biscornues, notamment la Ruelle d’Or, pour visiter les églises gothiques et baroques, la cathédrale Saint Guy, considérée comme l’une des plus belles d’Europe, le palais d’été (ou Belvédère) de Hradcany, l’édifice renaissance le plus raffiné, la basilique Saint-Georges, le plus bel exemple d’art roman de la ville, pour admirer le château (hrad), un des plus grand palais au monde, symbole politique et spirituel du pays, pour recenser les légendes et splendeurs de l’ancien ghetto, le Golem le plus célèbre en Europe Centrale.
Mais le monument le plus emblématique est l’Hôtel de Ville, édifice orné de sa célèbre horloge astronomique qui, depuis des siècles, a conquis le cœur des habitants et des visiteurs. Patientez et admirez le spectacle vieux de cinq-cents ans qui s’y déroule toutes les heures : un coq doré jaillit au dessus de la magnifique horloge astronomique du XIVème pour pousser son chant, tandis que, dans les deux petites fenêtres en dessous, défilent les douze apôtres et toute une série de personnages, un squelette qui brandit un sablier et tire sur une corde, Saint Pierre, quatre automates, la Mort, un Turc, la Vanité, l’Avarice. Intellectuelle, cultivée, brillante, artiste, la « capitale magique de l’Europe », selon la formule d’André Breton, a séduit les plus grands : de Descartes à Chateaubriand, en passant par Mozart ; et nombre de ses enfants sont célèbres : Dvorak (Symphonie du Nouveau monde), Alfons Mucha, qui a connu la gloire en tant artiste de l’art nouveau et affichiste attitré de Sarah Bernhardt Milos Forman (« Vol au-dessus d’un nid de coucou », « Amadeus »), Franz Kafka (« Le Procès », « La Métamorphose »).
« N’achetez pas avec vos oreilles mais avec vos yeux » : gardez ce proverbe tchèque en mémoire lors de votre visite d’une boutique de verrerie avec ses splendides verres de cristal de Bohème.
« Prague, cette saveur comme une gorgée de vin » chantait Jaroslav Seifert : dégustez une bière blonde ou brune, la pivo, une des meilleures du monde grâce à l’excellence du houblon de Bohême, ou une absinthe, la fée verte, licite à Prague.
Que mange-t-on à Prague ? La star de la gastronomie tchèque c’est le goulash, un plat en sauce accompagné de porc ou de boeuf. En dessert, le trdelník de Prague est un type de gâteau à la broche, préparé avec une pâte enroulée autour d’un bâton, garnie de sucre, de noix et/ou de cannelle avant d’être cuit au feu de bois.
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe : « Prague, cette pierre précieuse enchâssée dans la couronne de la terre… »
Pour en savoir plus : https://whc.unesco.org/fr/list/616/ Pour saisir le Printemps de Prague, programmez une pause culinaire au Mucha Café – 227, boulevard Saint Germain – 75007 Paris ; et lisez « L’insoutenable légèreté de l’être » de Milan Kundera.
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